gray drape dress

dress - gathered back dress (burda #109, december 2015)

i've made couple dresses from this pattern before 

and i wear my mocha version a lot

but there is something slightly off about those pleats..

maybe it's a drafting mistake

but they look kinda bulky in almost all the versions i've seen,

regardless of fabric choice, 

and pull in strange places..

and if you try wearing cardigan over the dress

gathers make it look like you have a back hump

..

but i love the overall fit

and actually like that extra fabric at the back,

just not the bulkiness of the pleats,

so, i came up with an idea to change the back

into a cowl drapey thingy

..

to achieve that, i simply cut fabric in straight line

from one high shoulder point to the other

while i was cutting back of the dress,

it must be easiest pattern 'hack' ever,

and then i finished that new neckline with bias tape

..

my modification also simplified construction of the dress

as pleated version requires hand stitching

(to secure neck facings to the dress)

..

bonus photo is shoulder seam, from the inside

i like how  bias tape and front neck facing look

..

next time i might try cutting convex back neckline instead of straight

i guess it would make for a better looking cowl 

..

mokosha