Wednesday, December 7

gray drape dress



dress - gathered back dress (burda #109, december 2015)

i've made couple dresses from this pattern before 
and i wear my mocha version a lot
but there is something slightly off about those pleats..
maybe it's a drafting mistake
but they look kinda bulky in almost all the versions i've seen,
regardless of fabric choice, 
and pull in strange places..
and if you try wearing cardigan over the dress
gathers make it look like you have a back hump
..
but i love the overall fit
and actually like that extra fabric at the back,
just not the bulkiness of the pleats,
so, i came up with an idea to change the back
into a cowl drapey thingy
..
to achieve that, i simply cut fabric in straight line
from one high shoulder point to the other
while i was cutting back of the dress,
it must be easiest pattern 'hack' ever,
and then i finished that new neckline with bias tape
..





my modification also simplified construction of the dress
as pleated version requires hand stitching
(to secure neck facings to the dress)
..
bonus photo is shoulder seam, from the inside
i like how  bias tape and front neck facing look
..


next time i might try cutting convex back neckline instead of straight
i guess it would make for a better looking cowl 
..
mokosha


Friday, November 25

oversized



started working on this blazer 
all the way back in 2014, when the pattern was out
(it's pattern no.126, from april issue of burda 2014)..
and then did my standard thingie of messing up welt pockets
and abandoning the whole thing for a year
..
then this april i tried to get back to it
even got the pockets fixed by my friend boris
finished the lapels, sewed the lining
and abandoned it one more time
..
but it bugged me
i'm not a fan of unfinished things..
so, some time ago, i finished it finally
and, then made 5 more in a week
because i'm strange like that
..





i simplified it a bit
there should be back went, but i skipped it
blazer is wide enough without it..
i also skipped metal buckle closure,
and have made the blazer one size smaller than i usually would
..
only blazer #1 has welt pockets
made as per pattern instructions..
damn pockets are to be blamed that it took me 
two years and a half to finish the blazer,
and when i finally did finish it
they proved to be completely useless 
so i added simple patch pockets to other blazers instead
..


i know it sounds kind of nuts to sew 6 almost identical blazers
but i wanted to master lapel inserting 
and really enjoyed the process :D
also, i plan to keep only blazer #1 (it's already getting crazy amount of wear)
and sell the rest of them

  

i see many more blazers in future
maybe not from this pattern, but more complicated ones
as there's so many skills i'd like to master
(starting from welt pockets, that i menage to mess
way too often)
..
mokosha









Friday, November 11

hummingbird bomber jacket



bomber jacket - burda magazine 10/2016/#122 modified
dress - burda magazine 09/2012/#107


couple months ago
i found this amazing fabric in remnant bin of my favorite fabric shop
and, as i've never seen anything like it, i had to have it
(bonus is that it was pretty cheap, as it had a misprinted part)
fabric is double faced, it's basically a thick gray sweatshirting fabric
that has teal fabric with hummingbird print fused to it's back
..
the idea was to find a bomber jacket pattern
and then use both sides of fabric to make that jacket
to 'play' with it a bit..
dunno why i landed on this particular pattern
probably out of laziness, as it's only 3 simple pieces to trace and cut..
but i kind of wish i chose a different one
 i mean, there is at least 10 of them that burda released in recent years
with all kinds of silhouettes
and i went for the boxiest one..
anyways, i made size 36, which is a size smaller than what i usually sew
and it was still so grotesquely wide once sewn
 i ended up taking it in quite a lot, at side seams and sleeves too..
and i mean a lot, my jacket is probably 20cm narrower than burda's..
it was an easy fix, but a lot of fabric got wasted in that process
if i'd chosen a different pattern
i'd had a bit of the fabric left for future projects
this way, i have only misprinted parts left..
..
that aside, i love the jacket i got in the end
i did not line it
but have used seam allowances as a 'design feature'
and topstitched them all down 
it took some time, but i think it looks nice
both inside and out 
(actually, if i'd menage to find a double sided zipper
it could have been a double sided jacket)
..
mokosha


  



Thursday, October 20

black&navy floral


dress - burda 08/2016/117

feeling a bit conflicted about my new dress
..
one the one hand, i really love how the dress turned out
i loved sewing it, and adding all the lace tape was fun
it's super comfy and i love how those two fabrics look together..
on the other hand, it's kind of not my style at all
and i feel a bit strange wearing it
as if i'm wearing a costume
..
i mean, i love me some boho looking dresses
and i've sewn quite a few of them, that i still love and wear..
but it's almost like i love that look in theory
more than i love it once i try to pull it off..
does that even make any sense?



  
dunno why the 'bust' tape looks so unsymmetrical in these  pics
i swear it's neat and symmetrical irl :)
(and i have an instagram photo to prove it)


anyways.. back to more technical stuff
i changed the sleeves, narrowed them quite a bit
because i did not have enough fabric for the original sleeves
but i actually like them now more than original ones..
also, i had no idea what i was supposed to do with pattern piece no12
i wasn't reading instructions before cutting fabric
so i cut that piece in black floral fabric
(it shouldn't be cut, but used later, when pleated panels are added to skirt
as a pattern for trimming i don't-know-what,
i wasn't actually planning to add those pleated parts, 
and burda instructions are rather strange sometimes)
so, when i finished the skirt, and it looked a bit too hi-lo for my taste
i simply added that piece no12 to skirt front
and it made the hem way more even
plus it added visual interest to skirt
and is not my favorite detail of the dress
..




and that would be it.. 
now i'm off to find me some gray shapeless sack to wear
and feel more like myself again 
..
mokosha

Monday, September 12

not so little LBD (and few tops too)


i'm all about simple things lately
simple silhouettes, simple lines, simple fabrics,
minimal jewelry, bold lipsticks (and a bitchface, apparently)


(with occasional smile)


first i've made a top, two months ago.. 
white one with black dots, 
that you can see in pics below..
pattern is from may issue of burda magazine (#111)
and i loved it, so i made another one
and then wore those two tops repeatedly
like i have no other items in my closet..
then it hit me that i should turn that pattern into a dress
and make my dressing up in the morning even more simple
no need to think which pants, shorts or skirt to wear with one of the tops
just put a dress on and call it a day..
it can't get more simple than that
(unless you're in a nudist camp in high summer
and dressing is totally unnecessary)


also made these pants
(trusty burda 07/2011/#102
first time in jersey fabric)
should make more of these too



so yeah.. i have my summer shit figured out
now only if summer would last forever


mokosha

Thursday, July 14

sandra's maxi



new maxi.. that i've made for me
but gave away to my friend sandra
because she, as you can see, looks pretty damn perfect in it
(and i can always sew a new one for me..
not that i need any more dresses at the moment, but still..)
..
for the pattern i used top 'pattern'
that i copied from an rtw top
and then simply elongated it to maxi length
and added elastic at the waist
easy peasy, and nothing to talk about..
plus i'm not really in the mood for talking
as it's freaking hot 
and there is brand new episode of mr robot to be watched..
so i'll leave you to lovely sandra
and her new dress



Friday, June 17

new maxi dress


dress - halter maxi, burda magazine 06/2016/106

my favorite maxi dress at the moment!
probably only until i sew the next one
which is going to happen real soon
as i'm obsessed with maxis currently:
wanna make them in all shapes, colors and prints
..
had a lot of issues with this dress
but not because of the pattern
but because of the fabric, that was insanely thin and shifty..
it's a rayon challis, lovely to wear and super soft
but a bit different from every other challis fabrics i sewed with
it's loosely woven and has a mind of it's own
so.. my dress ended up being slightly wonky
and not as symmetrical as i would like it to be
but i love it anyways
..

  

dress is supposed to have quite a few more pattern pieces
but i eliminated them..
it comes with another 'bodice' underneath, 
that is boned and strapless 
but i decided i do not need that
it's a summer dress, halter bodice is lined with self fabric
that's a lot of fabric already, in hot belgrade summer,
i can live without few more layers of fabric and interfacing
(and not having to install boning is a plus too)
..
did not use pattern for the skirt
as i did not have enough fabric
i just pleated one large rectangle of fabric free handedly 
and sewed it to the bodice
..